kitchen pass through decorating ideas

kitchen pass through decorating ideas

hello this is keisha marrero herewith an instructional video on how to turn this into this. it's actually areally simple procedure as you can see i have not started on the bottom doors yet.the overall result is going to look like the top doors and i'm gonna go aheadand zoom in here just so that you can see some of the details on that actual doorand it's a really simple change. changing the handle can go a long way from those old dingy ones i have there and believe it or not that is actually wallpaper that's put on thosedoors. so i'm gonna go step by step in and do forgive me for cutting and on certainparts just for time purposes to try to keep this nice and compact and forthe purpose that i'm actually holding


the camera myself through this entirevideo. now the first thing that i did was to actually remove the doors. you wantget those are really nice and clean before you apply anything to them justto make sure that you have proper adhesion and not run into any problemsin the future. i scrubbed them down, some of themwith some soap and water just because they had oil built up on them. thiswas a foreclosed home that i purchase and with others i was able to get awayjust by taking some lysol wipes and cleaning it down. now i waited until it wasnice and dry and then i applied this little guy right here which is a spray onbonding primer, which they sell at


sherwin williams and it is used to allow paint and other miscellaneous objects to be able to attach to a surface properly. itgrants them better adhesion and then i using this paint right here which is aproclassic water-borne, water based alkyd. i decided to go with the satin finish justbecause i'm not a fan of the semi-gloss, even do it does give you a higherwashability. now it was just really simple, just chose a color that i liked, which in thiscase it was my urban putty. to actually paint the back of the cabinet itself,which is the frame. now for the brush i'm using a purdy brush, this is an xl dale, as you can see, it has been used quite a lot. i prefer the tapered edge though just because it's easier to do a nice, straight edge than it is if you're


trying to apply it with a straight edge brush, this one you can kind of push it down, it allows you to get a nicer, straighter line than you would otherwise.try to keep your brushes in good condition because that can go a long wayand let's go to the next part of the video. in one moment. as you can see these are theoriginals, they haven't been painted yet. i haven't really done anything to them, still the original handles and everything. now these middle shelves right here, you can remove them, certainly something that you're going to want to do when you're refinishing these. you want to have a nice clean blank slate before you start painting anything and i did decideto do a little fun detail just to kind


of personalize these cabinets to me.basically i had these removed, i'm not sure if you can see them all that well withthe video, but there is an actual texture in there. pretty much like a stone look to them, and all that is is this rust-oleum american accents. this is the fast-drying, even though it says fast-drying, it actually takes over six hours before you can actually mount it up back onto theframe, so that is actually one of the mistakes that i first made when i wasusing this, is that i'm thinking here, hey, it says fast drying and within half an hour i try to grab itto actually put it on and the little flake part started to come right off thesurface. now, after i waited six hours, you can


pretty much scrub these and it's notcoming off. trying to see if i can get this to focus, but they're not coming off they're set on pretty well inthere and they're not really scratching off which is what i wanted to do forthis particular look. another quick thing that i wanted to note here just before iwent ahead and started taking off the doors off the other side and started toclean those off and applying the primer, make sure that all your doors have somesort of stopper like this, it can be rubber, it can be made of soft cloth, and the reasonyou want that to be there is to protect the paint that you have on the frame,because even though it's a water-based modified oil, when you put it togetherand you close the door you don't have


these stoppers, there's still the possibilitythat this paint is going to want to stick to the frame and when that happensand you pull it, either the paint on the door or the paint on the frame is going torip off, so this is just an extra protection just to prevent that from happening. nowi do apologize ahead of time because i'm not going to be using the same pieces toshow you everything step by step and the reason being is because i'm trying tosave a little bit of time, because it does take quite a bit between the coats of paint to actually dry off for me to be able to do the next section. these are actually dividers go inside one of the cabinetsthat i have in the bathroom, which i'm


also going to be finishing up with somewallpaper, as you can see i have already painted on the other side. i have not put aprotective clear coat on this yet, that is entirely optional, especially ifyou're using oil based paint however i decided to do that and just to give itan extra protection just because it is going in a bathroom and it is going also in a kitchen. i have here my bonding primer. just shaking this up really well. what i have underneath is actually just a plastic bag, just protect the floor when i'mspraying and you just want to get a nice universal coat on that. you don't want toput it on too heavy, because then you'll end up getting over-spray, or drops of too much of that primer on it and when that happens, when you go to paint on top of it then you're going toget lumps and it's not going to be a smooth


finish. so we're gonna let those dry for about, i'd say anywhere between twenty five minutes to an hour, just make sure thatyou paint it earlier than six hours after it has been applied. ok so here i have several pieces, that are all set and ready to get top coated with a clear. for the clear i'm using a wood classics waterborne polyurethane varnish, also in satin and the really great thing about this is thatwhen you paint it on you will see in the areas that you've actually applied itbecause it'll turn that particular section of milky white, so that you know ifthere is any particular area that you haven't covered with the product yet.just give it a really quick shake, just because


sometimes it does have some sediment atthe bottom that you want to get really well mixed in with the rest of the product. i did want to go ahead and reinstate the fact that i have already done two coats of the proclassic on these doors. the clear isactually going to be the final step to finish the inside of the doors. so all i did forthis, it's pretty self-explanatory, you just paint it on the doors. you don't even haveto paint the sides. let me see if i can get this up. as you can see the sides are still white, except for a tiny bit ofoverlap there, which is good. just so that when you put on the wallpaper you don'tsee any of those white spots if you do end up cutting the paper, for whatever reason, alittle bit too short. so for this i applied


the first coat of the proclassic. ilet it dry, typically about three hours after applying the first coat, you shouldbe all set to apply the second coat. once you dry that off really well, we wouldbe all set to go ahead and put the clear on top. now, one thing that i did notice while doing these, is that you do wanna keep everything in the same direction, even if initially youhave to go at different ways about it just to get into every nook and crannyand the reason being is because once it dries you will seesome times some of those brush strokes if you did do them in different directionsfor each section. as you can see already, in the areas where i've already applied that polyurethane you're seeing where it's turning


whiter, and don't worry that's not goingto change the color, once it actually dries it will dry out to what it wasbefore you put the clear on top; which is really great for the satin finish, justbecause you're not going to end up with a different color than what youoriginally intended to. so i'm gonna go ahead and finish off this door and dothe others and then i'll continue with the tutorial. ok so i just finished applyingthe first coat of the polyurethane to the doors. how many coats you do is up to you. if you're doing it in anarea like a counter or an area that you're going to be in constant contact with then iwould probably do about three coats. i gonna let this dry for probably 30minutes to one hour before i do another


coat. it's been about five minutes and asyou can see it's already starting to dry pretty nicely and going back to theoriginal darker color. for these i'm only going to do two coats and then i will goand instruct on how to do the wallpaper portion of the instructionalvideo. so while my polyurethane coat is drying in the other room, i'm going to go ahead and just spray these light socketfixtures and the little dividers that were inside the shelves with the rust-oleumamerican accents stone texture. how heavy you apply this is up to preference,personally i like it pretty heavy, so i'm going to go all out and spray this on until i am happy;


and that's basically what you're going to do with this. don't be afraid to get nice and close in that. be sure not to touch these, until they are nice and dry, because they will wipe off rather easily, unless they're completely dry. now, it's really important that you also don't start touching or working with the doors or the frame until the polyurethanehas had a chance to cure for at least six hours. i cannot reinstate that enough,because if you do, what's going to happen is that, that polyurethane is going to become sticky and it's not going to cure properly. so while this is drying and mypolyurethane is drying, i'll go ahead and start doing the cut oust for mywallpaper. okay so we're back here . its been about


six hours since the polyurethane on the doors have been drying with that second coat. now i know it's kind of hard to see, but this is the samewallpaper that i had originally shown in the beginning of the video, it is simplya different color; the other one was blue and for this one i am doing a beigecolor, so i am alternating colors between the doors forthe kitchen cabinets. now here are a couple of things that i did want topoint out as far as things that you're going to need. now you are going to needsome sort of spatula to be able to smooth the wallpaper out once you actually put it on the back of the door. you're going to need a pen. i would suggestusing a ballpoint pen rather than one of


those fine points, just to avoid accidentally tearing the paper when you're doing your markings on the back of it. granted there's differentways you measure your paper out, i'm going to show you what i found worked best for me in order to be able to get a nice, smooth edge with them most minimalamount of waste as far as wallpaper, as i'm sure all you know, wallpaper can bepretty expensive depending on the type of wallpaper that you're using. we'regoing to need a foam brush. if you have bigger foam brush than what i have at the moment, by all means do use it it. it is going to make your job a whole lot easier. unfortunately this is the only thingthat i had at hand. we're going to need a


pair of scissors to be able to cut out our wallpaper once it has been measured out. we're going to need an exacto knife to be ableto trim out the excess once the paper has gone on the back of the door. really important, you need tomake sure that your knife is actually sharp and not dull and the reason i say this isbecause if you do have a dull knife, when you go to cut the wallpaper, rather than giving you anice, smooth edge, it's going to leave a jagged edge. it's going to try to chew thatpaper and it's not gonna look very pretty at the end of the day. i also havea rag, which i intend to put around the edge of the spatula or putty knife, whatever you'd like to call this, in order to prevent myself from damaging


the surface of the paper when i'm trying tosmooth it off, make sure it has no bubbles on that door; and lastly, probably the mostimportant thing besides the actual wallpaper, is going to be your wallpaperpaste. i bought at sherwin williams. it's the roman pro-880 it's a clear, strippable wallpaper adhesive.granted that these wallpapers that come from york and brewster do tend to have apre-pasted back, i find that it's not enough for it to be able to stickproperly to the back of a door. this is like a formica material, so it does tendto be very smooth, it's not porous at all, so you might have some adhesionissues and this is just to ensure that


it's really on there and not going topeel up as you keep touching it and opening and closing those doors. in reality ifyou were just going to put this on a wall that's plaster, stucco, or drywall youwouldn't have to use the paste since it's not an area that's going to beconstantly touched, but this is just a safety precaution for myself. now i'm going to go ahead and show you how i measured this out. i do use something to hold the paper in place when i'm trying to do my measurement,just so that it doesn't roll back up on me and we'll go from there. so i have mydoor placed on top of the wallpaper now. the easiest way that i found to do thiswas to take the paper, lift it up and give


myself enough measurement to just touchthe very bottom of that door, or very top, whichever way you want to look at this, and then i'll take my pen and mark all around it, around the door, and then i will show you what i do from thatpoint forward. i am went to give me, myself a little bit more wiggle roomhere, just because as you can see i have this jagged edges that come from the originalcutting on the wallpaper when you take it out of the roll, so i'm just gonnamake it a little bit longer so that when i use my scissors or my exacto knife totrim that out i'm not going to see that jagged pattern on the corner. ok so i have done my first set of lines, i don't know if you can tell, they're right there, with my ballpoint pen.


one of the things that i forgot tomention is to keep the painted side of the door facing up, just so that when you'reusing your pen to do your markings you, if for whatever reason do get some of thatand ink on the door it goes on the side that's going to be covered by the wallpaperrather than getting it on the already nice and painted. if, for whatever reason,you do get some paint on the painted side, i'm sorry, not paint, some ink on the painted side, you should be able towipe it off fairly easily with a lysol wipe, just because you do have that polyurethane clear coating over the top to protect that. now, from this point forward what i do to get my next measurement onthe side, just to give that same excess


that i have here, on the other side. and forgive me for doing this, it's kind of hard to do it and record at the same time, but basically i will lift it up like this and then do my next markings. hopefully i can go ahead and lift that past here. just a very light line, you don't have to do anything too dark and then around the corner as well and then i'm gonna flip it back down and do the topportion the exact same thing, stand it up how i did here, just to get that secondmeasurement for the side. ok so here we go, here are my markings already, all done. i'm using a piece of spare tile to hold my end of my wallpaper down, to keep it from rolling back up. now all we're going to do from this point


forward, as you notice, i did both sides. and this little edge right here is going to be really important and i will show you why in a minute. since i'm not doing an edge on top, since i'm using where the paper's already cut for this edge i don't have to draw out. so i'm just gonna do a cut here. so my first cut for this paper, i'm gonna cut around the outer edge, all the way up to the top and then cut this outer edge as well. this section here isjust going to be waste, it's not that much paper left over to be able to do anything with it. so, let me go ahead and cut that really quickly and i'll be right back again. okay so i'mgoing to try to show this best as i can just because it's a little bitdifficult to hold the phone and try to do my cuts. i cut via that outer line to get rid of the actual role, just make it a little bit


easier to work with and i also cutalong the top to get rid of my excess, whic is right here. now the next cuts that we're going to do it's so that we don't have any overlap on the actual wallpaper when we put it onthe door, so we're going to do one cut alongside here and cut along this line as well, so you're going to essentially be taking out a little square off this section, so that when youput it down the door you don't have any excess remaining on those corners. ok so now here comes the fun part. as you can see i have that little square missing from each corner. so now what i'm going to do, is i'm going take my door, this is the side that is not painted; which is the original and i'm going to grab some paste.


some parts are a little watery so i'm just gonna try to stir it up a little bit. and we're just going to basically paint this on. you don't want to put it on too thick, just a thin layer that's enough to cover the surface. the reason you don't want to do it thick its when you start using your putty knife to squeeze the excess off you're basically going to have a mess on your hands if you put too much on and that was a lesson i learned the hard way, trust me. so just basically paint this on as best as you can. ok, so i have lowered the door onto the piece of wallpaper. there really is no easy way of doing this, usually i will just hold a corner and slowly start putting it over


the door and then flipping it upsidedown with the painted and portion facing towards me and then using the penguidelines that i had originally drawn out in order to set it into position. thekey to this part, is to make sure that you don't start pressing too hard orthat all will allow that glue to set in a little bit too quickly for you and it's not goingto give you a whole lot of wiggle room. ok, so i have my little putty knife wrapped up on some cloth and this is the fun part where you get to start taking all those air bubbles out. you do want to take some time doing this. this is probably themost important step to doing this, because the last thing you want is tohave spent all this time painting and


priming and prepping this door, just tofind out that when you hang it, you have a giant bubblesticking in the middle of the door; not to mention that, that trapped air isgoing to compromise how it is adhering to the surface. so just take your time. make sure that, you know, you pass your hand on top of it. get out any bubbles that you can see. tryto apply enough force to get the bubble out, but not enough to actually damagethe wallpaper. this is a textured wallpaper i will advise you guys to know that, more textured wallpaper you're working with the harder it is to be able to getthe bubbles out without damaging the surface and the same is true for thethicker wallpaper and then go ahead and


finish here. once all the bubbles are outwe're going to apply very very little paste to the corners here and then justpress that paper down and do the same exact emotion that were doing at the topof the door on the side. take clean rag and clean off any excess paste that youmight have on that side of that door. ok, so the door is finally wallpapered. now, if you will notice; i have to be very gentle with this just because the paste is still wet. we have some excess on the edges, which was that in jagged line i had originally mention, which was the very beginning of thewallpaper roll. we are going to let this sit overnight, just so that the glue is niceand dry before we do anything else with


this. i'm not gonna cut the excess off of ituntil it's dry and the reason being is because i want to make sure that, that paper does not shift while it's tryingto dry so it's safer just to wait for it to get completely cured before we go offtrimming the excess. ok so here we have it. the door is completely dry already. it's the next day, as you can see, it's a lot lighter in here. as far as the excess that i was referring to... you see that line right there? let me see if i am going to be able to do this so i can show you guys. basically all we're going to do is take our exacto knife... and start on a corner and just press down against that edge.


get that excess off. try not to lift the blade, because sometimes that wont give you an even cut. and be careful about how far in you go, because you don't want to tear off the paint off the door in this section or corner. so i'm just gonna go ahead and do that on all sides. now it is time to finish the look of the door as you can see, all the edges have been completely trimmed off. now, because this was already a door that was hung up, i didn't have to replace the actual hardware. so this is just going to go back onto the frame as it originally was, and i already have, conveniently enough, the little holes in the back, drilled, so i am able to put the screws in the back of the door.


for this part, i like toput the screws in through the front, rather than the back first, like you'resupposed to, and the reason being is because when you puncture the hole, youwant to make sure that you're not damaging the wallpaper in the front. let me just go ahead and open this bag and quickly show you. so here i can see, that's the indentation for that first hole. so i'll just apply some amount of pressure to push it in and then just slowly pull it back out. just so that you're not damaging the wallpaper because if you do it from underneathfirst, what's going to happen if you're


going to start pushing the wallpaper out, and you're gonna get a giant bubble right here, just because this wallpapers is particularlythicker than the old one i was working with and i did find that to be theproblem as far as the wallpaper not breaking like i was expecting it to andjust lifting it and leaving me with a bubble so here's second hole right here then just slowly lift it back up. then all i'm going to do is just put this over the top and fasten them with the screws in the back. and there you have it, one completed door with the doorknob already installed. ready to be hung up.


i just wanted to thank you all for watching. i hope that you have found this video helpful. and feel free to post your thoughts, concerns, or your own style doors that you decided to do with wallpaper. thank you very much and i'llsee you soon.


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