havertys dining room sets

havertys dining room sets

this video is brought to you by sailrite.visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies, tools, and instructions.in this video tutorial, we’ll show you every step required to reupholster a recliner chair.this happens to be a la-z-boy brand chair. by using a few common household tools anda few upholstery tools that can be purchased from sailrite, you can diy (do it yourself).watch this video and transform a favorite recliner chair like this to match your decoror give it a stylish new look. here’s cindi, an expert seamstress and upholsterer,to show you how it’s done. we’re going to start working on this reclinertoday, and it’s in really good condition. one of the things that you need to check,as with all chairs, is that the arms are tight


and that the back is tight. this one feelsreally good. when we do take is apart, we’ll probably tighten up the arms a little bitwhile it’s apart. you also want to make sure that the mechanism works, and this onedoes. this one has a separate seat cushion so we’ll do that separately. this area ofthe chair, the back comes off as one piece and then this part- the foot rest and theseat- will also come apart and we’ll be left with the two arms. one of the thingswith recliners, because they do come apart, you want to be careful not to choose a fabricthat has to be matched really carefully because it’ll be really hard to do with all thepieces separate and then put them back together and make it look right.eric: to remove this back rest, cindi unlatched


a hinge in the back of the chair. we’regoing to look ahead and show you that hinge with the fabric removed.and if you want to take the back back off to redo the chair, move the chair, whatever…youcan stick a screwdriver up in underneath here and flip these back up, and then the backwill lift off again. eric: sailrite carries thousands of decorativefabrics that will look great on recliner chairs like this. check it out at sailrite.com.the next thing we’ll do is take this part of the frame out, and we’ll need to turnthe chair over to do that. these are the four screws that are holding the seat and the footrestinto the chair so we’ll need to loosen those. then when we take these off, this is a specialscrewdriver- it’s called a torques- and


it has a star on the end of it. you can eitherget one like this, or you can get one that will go in your power tools.we’ve taken the seat out of the chair, and we’re left with the two arms. this is thearea where, if anything needs to be tightened up, you want to do this before you put theseat back on. in this area where there’s brackets here, on this side facing me, thatcan be tightened up if your arms are lose. that is a common problem.here is the seat frame. we’re still going to take this piece off and this piece offof this with that torques screwdriver. before we move these, i’m going to mark what isthe top so that i make sure i get them back on the correct way and get the fabric goingthe correct way when i put the fabric on them.


there’s the little mid-ottoman piece, andthere’s the bottom ottoman. i also have to take the legs off of this, and they justunscrew. eric: coming up next, we’ll remove the oldupholstered fabric. we’ll start with the arms.now we’re going to just take all these staples out down here on the bottom. you can see thatthe fabric isn’t pulled under so that this edge is nicely finished. there’s no skirton this chair to hide anything underneath. we’re just going to start taking all thesestaples out. eric: by using a tack and staple remover likethis, we can pry the staples out of the upholstered chair. this is a tedious job, and it alsois helpful to use a pair of old wire cutters


that are dull. notice here how cindi usesthem to pull on the fabric, and she also uses them to pull the staple completely out ofthe fabric. this arm looks like its constructed all inone piece, almost like a slip cover, and then pulled down over the arm frame. this cordingwas only sewn to this corner, and then this was attached. then the cording was pulledover it to finish off this edge on the outside. we’re going to leave this all here so thati don’t forget to make the cording that much longer than the actual arm. i’ve gotthis whole bottom taken off, and i’m just going to clean up some of the staples so idon’t hurt myself on them. if i can’t pull them out easily, i’ll just pound themback in.


the next area that’s going to come apartis this part right here, and it feels like there’s a tack strip in there. so we justneed to pry this up. there’s the metal tack strip, and i’m going to pull that out andthrow it away because they’re really sharp and i don’t want to cut myself on them.eric: the tack strip could be straightened out and reused. however, they’re very cheapat sailrite.com. so there’s a few staples right here alsothat i’m going to pull out. then it looks like this is probably going to slip off thearm. there’s a few staples underneath this bar right here so i’m going to have to pickit back up and get those out. eric: repeat that same procedure for the otherarm on the other side. let’s move on to


the seat deck. that’s coming up next.i’m going to work on this seat deck next, and it’s attached with a few pieces of elastic,and this deck here. i’m going to have to turn it over to do some of it. this pieceright here is attached up underneath here, and it’s what hides all of the mechanismwhen the chair is up. i think when i redo this, i’m going to do this in the fabricthat we use on the chair instead of this black fabric.eric: you’ll see later on that the cambric black fabric that cindi is removing does notnecessarily need to be removed. looks like i didn’t have to take that apart.that’s going to stay there. eric: the major upholstery tools that arerequired for a job like this are:


1. a mallet like this rawhide mallet2. a staple remover 3. a pneumatic staple gun4. a good sewing machine i have a few staples here on the side, butit looks like the rest of it is attached underneath this board. i’m going to take these outof the sides and then turn this piece over. eric: there are other tools that you willneed for a job like this, but you may already own them. if you don’t have them, they maybe available at sailrite. at the end of this video, there’ll be a materials and toolslist. here’s the two pieces that are left to takeoff- this little flap and this piece that we just released from the top. here’s thelittle flap piece that covers up the insides,


and here’s the deck piece that we just pulledoff. i’m going to keep this. i’ll take this part off, the fabric off. i’ll probablyreplace the elastic too because i ripped holes in it taking it apart.this is the little mid-ottoman piece. i’m going to take this apart and mark the arrowfor the top on the piece of wood also. i want to make sure i mark my arrow before i go toomuch farther. i will save these pieces to use as my pattern. don’t throw any of thesepieces away yet. now i’m ready to work on the lower ottoman.i’ll transfer my arrow when i get this loosened up also. this piece is also stapled acrossthe front. it’s what’s making this well in here in the fabric. so i need to take thispiece of foam off, and i’m going to try


not to tear this up because i do want to reuseit again. i’m going to save this piece and attach it back down when i get ready to putit back together. there’s a cardboard tack strip holding thesetwo pieces on there. so i need to also remove all of that and then this fabric will comeoff. there’s that piece and the cardboard tack strip was right here. i need to cleanup those staples a little bit. there’s actually a line drawn on the wood frame underneathhere to follow when you put it back on. i have all this taken apart now, and i’m goingto lay this back on here so i don’t forget to put it back on, and keep all these piecestogether. then i’m ready to take apart the inside back.this piece is velcroed to the base of the


frame when the chair’s put together. we’llput that velcro back on to the new piece. then this piece of elastic- i may be ableto save this one- it keeps the underneath of the chair from showing when the chair isreclined. the first place that we need to take apart is right here; on both sides.this edge, these two sides, probably have a metal tack strip under that i can just pryup. now at the top, there’s another cardboard tack strip and this little piece of padding.i’m going to take this off and keep the piece of padding and reuse it again. there’sthe outside back. eric: be sure to keep all this old decorativefabric. we’re going to be using it for patterning later on.we’re going to release all the staples around


the perimeter of this piece, and that’spretty much what’s holding it in. there’s a few staples here, and there’ll be a fewdown here at the bottom. this will all come off as one piece. up on this top edge, wehave a piece of cording that’s sewn on to the cushion up to here. so we’ll need toleave this piece long also, just like the arm piece so that we can connect it afterwe put the back piece on the frame. after i take this apart, i can see that they’veactually sewn the piping on. it wasn’t left long at the corners like i first thought.i think i might leave it long at the corners so that i can make this piece longer so ihave more to pull on when i’m attaching it to the frame, and then add the piping toit afterwards.


there’s a couple staples underneath thiswing piece right here. that’s what the cushion looks like after we take it off the frame.it’s all sewn together before you ever put it on the frame. this little band is sewnto the front with this band sewn to the front, and this is the stretcher that gets attachedand goes around the frame. instead of wrestling with this and trying to take it out with justthat much open, i’m going to take some of the stitching out of this little back pieceso i can get the cushion out a little easier. i will save this piece and reuse it. thisis the last piece that’s sewn on when we put this cushion together. that is why i’mtaking it off right now so that i can get this cushion core out without wrestling withit. it’ll be the last piece that goes on,


and then i will close it up and stuff thecushion in from the bottom. this cushion looks like it’s in really goodshape. we could probably add a layer of polyfil to it, or batting, if we wanted to. i’mnot sure that we need to do that. it’s still in pretty good condition. i’m going to leavethis together until i get ready to cut it out of the fabric and put it back togetherso that i don’t forget how it goes together. there’s a lot of small pieces here thatneed to work together to go around that frame. we’re going to talk about this chair, andnormally recliners get a lot of use. this one is in very good condition so we don’thave to replace any of this foam. but if we did have to replace this foam, sailrite hasa product called polyurethane foam with fabric


backing. it could be glued onto the chair.if we had to replace this, we could actually cut out the parts that we needed to replaceand add this in, or we could replace the whole thing. this comes in â¾â€, â½â€, and â¼â€thicknesses, and it would be perfect for this application.so i have both of my arms removed from the chair. i’m going to take one of them apartand make my pattern from it, and leave the other one together so if i have any questions,i can have answers from that one. another good thing to do is to take pictures of yourwork as you’re taking it apart so if you need to go back and check anything, you canlook at your pictures. i’m also going to label this as the inside arm and the outsidearm. you can see that they’ve stopped the


piping right there, and ended it and coveredthis piece up with it so it’s a nice clean finish on the outside edge of the back ofthe chair. this is the long piece of cording that goesdown underneath the outside arm of the chair. when i put it back together, i want to makesure that i leave my piece long like this so i can finish the bottom of the chairs theydid. eric: in the next chapter, we’ll show youhow to make your own piping with the decorative fabric of your choice.there’s the three pieces that i need, along with my cording pieces- the inside, the outside,and this top band that goes right along here. we’re using this paisley fabric; it’s54” wide. it does have a pattern to it,


but it’s not one that i’m going to tryto match. i’m just going to center the paisley on the outside arm pieces. i’m also goingto cut this area at the bottom longer than this because i want to have a little bit topull on, and i’m going to do that on the inside and the outside pieces, and the sameback here. i’m going to give myself a little bit of extra because this has been trimmedoff and i want a little more to work with than what’s left there. on these edges wherethe seam is, i’m going to cut it just like it is to the same size that it is now. thisis the spot where the piping ended on the outside, and then this was turned around tomake the corner of the back. so i want to make sure i cut that just like it was so thatcorner fits properly. out here and down here


is where i want to add some extra. i’m justchecking here to make sure that i have this one motif in about the same place on bothsides of the chair. i can see that i have the width about the same from here to here,and at the same height here. so i can cut my opposite side from this piece. there’smy two outside arm pieces. this is the inside arm, and you’re not goingto see so much of this one because this comes down underneath the deck of the chair, andthen there’s a cushion. so i’m not going to be so concerned about getting anythingcentered. this one will work, and i’ll just make the opposite one the same. the same withthis one, i’m going to give myself a little extra at the bottom and at the back. but whereit’s stitched, i need to make it exactly


the same as it is.eric: when making mirrored pieces for the other side, be sure the outside surfaces arefacing each other when you make them. since this one is the inside piece, i’mnot going to be so concerned about having these in exactly the same spot. but i am goingto make sure that they’re level on both sides of the chair. so this is what i’mlooking at right here. these cuts are what go around the base of the chair down hereon the frame. i’m not going to cut these out until i put it on the chair, just in casethese are not quite right for my piece. i can use these as a guide, but i’m not goingto cut anything right now. so those are the two pieces for the inside arm.when i took this piece apart, i didn’t mark


the top or the bottom so i’m going to takeit back over to the chair and lay it on here, and make sure i have the right part at theback and the right part at the front. here’s the stitching right here so i know that thisshould be the top when i lay it on the fabric. this is what we decided is the top of my piece.this will end up at the foot on the floor of the chair. since this is such a large pattern,we’re going to choose this to be the center of this piece. this piece i’m just goingto cut it exactly like it is. i don’t need to add any extra on this one anywhere. theni’m going to turn it over to cut the other one, and put the center of this paisley inthe same place on the other side. eric: since this piece is so long, and shewants to keep it centered over the pattern,


she uses pins to hold it in place so she caneasily cut around it without it moving. we’re not going to show cutting.i’m going to put a pin at the top of both of these so that i remember which is the topwhile i cut my cording and get ready to put it all together.eric: coming up next, we’ll show you how to make piping.now this arm has cording on both sides of it. i’m going to cut that right now andget it ready so i can put the arms together and put those on the frame because i wantto see what this chair’s going to look like. to cut my bias cording, and the reason i doit bias is because it doesn’t ravel and it stretches around the curves- and we dohave curves here- so it’s going to work


a lot easier and look a lot better if i cutit bias on this project. so i lay my ruler with the 45 degree angle on the selvage ofthe fabric and make a cut. this i’m going to throw away. then i’m going to cut mycording 1 1/2” wide by whatever width i have here. i’m folding it just so it’llfit on my cutting mat. now when i sew these pieces together, i also want to use a 45 degreeangle seam so that when it rolls over the cording, it’s not rolling on top of itselfand it won’t be as thick. i’m going to use my ruler again (i have to turn it overthis way) and lay the 45 degree line on this edge of the fabric, and cut it off this way.i’m cutting with the…you can see the line in the weave of the fabric. the seam willlay nicer if it goes the same direction as


this line in the fabric. then i’m goingto take the top one- i have them right sides up, both of them- i’m going to take thetop one and turn it over and put right sides together. when i stitch this, i’m goingto stitch from this angle to this angle. i’ll pin it and show you what happens. you’regoing to have a straight length of long bias. this one is already the angle that i want it tobe. this one i have to cut again. i’m going to lay the two on top of each other, cut the45 degree angle, and turn it over. if you want to figure how much cording you’regoing to need to buy for this chair, we would just actually measure- and it doesn’t haveto be an exact measurement; just make a rough measurement- 54” for the inside piece soyou need to double that because you’re going


to need two of them. the outside piece remembergoes down underneath the bottom of the chair so it’s quite a bit longer. so we wouldsay 84”, and you need that twice for the outside arms.eric: when calculating the amount of piping required, don’t forget to check if pipingis used for the back rest and possibly the cushion. throughout this video, we will beusing the sailrite ultrafeed sewing machine. it’s excellent for upholstery applicationslike this. here is where i’m sewing from this angleto this angle, and then i’ll open up the seam when i put it on the cording. i’m goingto chain stitch this so i don’t have to keep breaking my thread each time i do a newpiece. to make your cording, you’re just


going to take the cording itself and lay itin the center of your fabric, wrap your fabric around. there’s a tunnel in the foot that’sgoing to carry the cording for you. so the machine’s going to do the work, and allyou have to do is fold it back a little bit. eric: if you’re not using an ultrafeed sewingmachine, you may have to install a cording foot. this one has one built in. and we alsowant to sew this at maximum stitch length. here we’re sewing 6mm.when i get to a seam, i’m going to open it up and flatten it out with my fingers,and wrap it around. you can see how it doesn’t fold over on top of it so for when we makethis a bias seam, instead of a straight seam, it’ll give you a smoother finish.i have all my pieces laid out and ready to


sew together for these two arms. i’ve gotmy two long cording pieces, and my two short cording pieces. so i’m going to need oneshort cording piece first and my inside arm piece. before i start to stitch this, i’mgoing to take it up and lay this against the old piece and make sure i start it at theright place. on the original piece, it was actually started right here at the back ofthe fabric. when i stitch it, i’m going to start like that and go around to the bottom.eric: when we made the piping, we specifically used a long stitch length of about 6mm. whenwe make the rest of this cushion, including sewing on this piping, we’ll use a 4mm to5mm stitch length. when i come to this curve, even though i cutmy cording on the bias (it will curve around


this), it will curve a little bit nicer ifi do some clips right up to the stitching- you don’t want to cut the stitching- justto help it go around this curve a little smoother. now i have this band that goes across thetop of the arm and down the front of the chair, and i can see from the original piece thatit was sewn even with the end of this. this isn’t the stitch that we’re doing rightnow. this is the outside arm stitch. right now, this is what we’re working on- thispiece to this piece. so i’m going to start this right sides together right here and sewall the way around again. i’m going to start this with the edges evenjust like it was originally, and try to keep about a â½â€ seam all the way around. wheni come to this rounded area, i’m going to


clip this also- about a â½â€ apart and about3/8” in. it’s okay that these don’t match at the bottom. remember we added tothe bottom of this, but we did not add to the bottom of this.eric: cindi’s looking for the longer piece of piping for the opposite side.now i’m going to use the longer piece of cording and attach it to my outside arm. ifyou remember, it started right here in this area, and then this is going to fold overthat end and finish the back corner of the chair.eric: let’s take a look at the old one. i’m going to open this up so you can seewhat i’m doing. here’s the inside arm, here’s the band we just put on, and thisis this area. you can see that this cording


stops right here. i want to do the same thingwith my piece. i’m going to make a clip right here, and my cording’s going to startright at that clip. the end will be covered up with this seam right here when we put thatseam in the outside arm. this one i’m going to put a few pins in so i don’t have tosew it with the fabric on top. i prefer to sew with the cording on top.eric: cindi pins it in place because she’s going to start sewing from the opposite end,and she wants the cording, or piping, to stop at that exact location she just showed. cuttinga few relief notches here at the corner will make the piping go around the corner better.i’m not going to sew this all the way down to the bottom because i added to the bottomof this, and it stops at the bottom corner


of the chair right here, and then it’s pulledaround on top of the fabric without being stitched.i put the two pieces together and complete the arm. i’m going to start with this edgealong this edge again, and i am going to have to stitch with this piece on the bottom. butthat’s where those line up, and i’m going to stitch all the way around to the bottomagain. eric: to sew these assemblies together, keepthe edges lined up as they approach the needle. this time the piece i need to snip is on thebottom side because this is the straight edge and this is the round edge, and i want tosnip the straight edge so it goes around easier. eric: the seam allowance here is a â½â€ sodon’t snip past the â½â€.


this is the long piece that goes down underneaththe chair after i put this arm on. so this is the completed arm; i’m ready to put iton the chair. oops! i forgot to sew something. i forgot to sew this seam right here. it wouldbe sewn right sides together just like this, and it would finish off this area right herewhen i do sew it. this piece here we added to, and it’ll just be stapled right downhere. when this wraps around, it gets a metal tack strip that finishes off this back edgereally nicely. the other thing that we noticed when we put this on is that we have kind oftoo much fabric right here and right here. when i put it back on again, we’re goingto lay a piece of polyester batting in there and see if that will take care of those placesthat we don’t like, and then when we pull


it really tight to staple it down, you won’tfeel the batting in there and it’ll fill out these two corners for us without adjustingour fabric. eric: cindi will sew right over the piping,and she’ll also do some reversing at the beginning and the end to lock the stitch inplace. so there’s the finished back corner of thechair. when you put our finished sewn piece on here,we had gullies on this side and this side. so we want to fill that in with a little bitof polyester batting. to do that i’m going to measure…this discolored part right hereis the part that’s exposed, the cushion is right here, and the back of the reclineris in this white area right here. so we only


need to extend it a little bit beyond theyellowed area, and back here is where the wing of the back sits so we’re just goingto come a little bit beyond that. my piece needs to be 27” long, and i want to continueit over here by 12”. when i start to put it on, i’m going to cut some of this outback here so that it’s not interfering with the back of the chair when we put that backon. i have my piece cut 12” x 27”, and i’mgoing to start by putting a couple staples over on this side to hold it in place.eric: we’re using the eze tc-o8 long nose staple gun.and i just laid it over the foam. eric: sailrite also sells a short nose version.these are pneumatic staple guns that are very


reasonably priced at sailrite.i’m going to trim this back corner out a little bit. i’m going to glue the wholething down and then work on the edges. i’m going to put a thin line of glue right alonghere, and kind of roll the batting over into that glue i just put on there. when you’reputting the glue on this, if you get it into the layers of the batting, it seems to moldbetter to the edge. eric: the edge of the batting can be trimmedwith scissors to make a smooth transitional edge. or as she is doing here, it can be gluedand pressed down to make a smooth transition. you will have to hold it for a few minutesto get it to stay in place, but it kind of blends itself right into the foam.i’m ready to put this arm panel on; it’s


the inside and the outside arm. it’ll takea little bit of stretching and pulling to get it where i want it. i’m going to puta few staples in the back along here just to secure it so i can start making the cutsthat go here and here around the frame. eric: there are several tools, and also equipmentthat will make upholstering projects like this easy. sailrite carries an upholsterytool kit that you may want to check out. if you’re interested in the upholstery toolkit from sailrite, here’s a quick view of what you’ll get in that kit.the old piece had these cuts that went across and then up to cover up the wood underneathhere. i’m just going to cut mine straight up and then use another piece to cover upthe wood underneath so that i don’t have


to get all of these cuts exactly in the rightplace. i’m going to do that for the front piece of the frame and the back piece.eric: before she staples here, she notices she needs to cut more of a relief slit hereso the fabric will rest up against the wood frame, and then she can place her staplesthere. i’m going to turn the chair up and pullthis down underneath and finish this piece off underneath here. this is the part herethat i want to cover up with an extra piece so i’m just going to cut a scrap piece that’sbig enough to cover that. eric: this area is directly under the chairso it will probably not be noticeable. however, when the chair is reclined back, you may beable to see it. we’d rather see fabric than


wood.then it gets pulled down underneath. eric: as you can see at the bottom of thisarm, there’s not much fabric. there is enough to get a few staples in there and that’swhat’s important. i pulled this down this way first and theni’m going to fold my cording over to make the corner here at the bottom.this piece right here will get a metal tack strip in it. i’m just going to put a few staplesin it to hold it in place while i work with the rest of the piece, and then i’ll goback and do the metal tack strip. we cut this piece longer because it gets folded underto finish off the bottom of this part of the chair. so i’m going to turn that under andput a few staples in it and make sure i have


it pulled tight enough before i staple thewhole thing down. it looks like i need to pull that a little bit tighter to get thiscording to come down and around the side. this is the piece of piping that we left longthat’s going to come along here and trim off this edge of the chair. but i’m goingto finish attaching my piece first before i do that.eric: to finish off an edge, we’ll use the metal upholstery tack strips. we recommendusing new tack strips, though you could possibly straighten out your old ones. they’re availableat sailrite. now i’m going to take these two staplesout so that i can put my metal tack strip in back here to finish off this edge, andthen i’ll finish tacking the bottom.


eric: watch as cindi installs the tack strip.in a few seconds, she’ll explain exactly what she’s done.so i pushed that in to the fabric on the wrong side, and i decide where to put that. it’sabout a width away from where i want it to end up when i’m finished. then i’m goingto turn it to the inside and start tapping it down. i’m just going to tap a littlebit on each nail until i get the whole thing down. you can see that the tack strip, eventhough i don’t have it all the way tacked down yet, has pulled this piece nice and tighton the outside. i’m going to trim out some of this fabric since it’s so thick; we don’tneed all of that in there. eric: an awl is being used here to find thehole that the leg has to screw into later.


i did not mark my holes for my legs beforei pulled this down underneath. so i’m making sure i know where they are with this tool.i’m just going to mark them with a marker. i may have to trim some of that fabric outto get the leg back in there because this is pretty thick right here and it’s eventhicker back here. to finish this edge off up here without theseravels right here, i’m going to cut this and tuck it underneath. i’m just going tosnip it right up to the seam. it’s just an awkward transition for the cording. i stillthink i’m going to need a dab of glue there to finish that off and make it look nice andkeep it from raveling. i’m going to just use the cardboard tack strip all the way acrossthe edge.


eric: later on cindi will use a hot glue gunthere and to keep that edge from unraveling and also tuck it back underneath the cardboardtack strip. we’ll not be showing that. i’m going to take some of these staplesout and get rid of some of this thickness in here because i have a leg that needs toscrew in right here, and that’s probably going to be too thick for that leg to laynicely against the base of the chair. there’s where the leg will go in. i’m going to trimout around that, and get rid of as much of the thickness of the fabric as i can. nowi’m ready to attach this piece back down without all that thickness there for my leg.eric: follow the same procedure for the arm on the other side of the chair. let’s moveon to the deck.


these are all the pieces that belong to thedeck of the chair and the footrest. this is what i’m going to work on next because i’mready to slide the deck mechanism back into the chair. so that one’s ready to be stapledon. this one is made into two pieces and it gets attached right in this part of the chairframe. the larger piece is the top. i’m just going to measure it and cut two morelike it. it’s about 28” x 11”. i’m going to give myself a little bit of extralength. so i need one piece that’s 28” x 11”, and one piece that’s 28” x 8”.i’m going to put a pin at the top of this so i remember which is the top. there wasno cording or anything in this; this was just a seam that attaches to the wood. i’m goingto flip this over on itself and match up my


patterns the best i can so that it’s consistentup the front of the chair. then i’m going to stitch about a â½â€ seam across this.then i’ll have my two pieces ready for the footrest.this piece i’m going to reuse just like it is. i’m going to center it on the patternand give myself a little bit all the way around the edges and then i’m going to just foldit around and hem it right on top of this one and reuse it with the fabric on the outsideinstead of this black cambric. i’ll take this to the sewing machine when i’m readyand just fold this over and cover up the old fabric on three sides.then on this piece, this is a separate piece, i’m going to pull this one off and stitcha new one in there. this i’m going to leave


here and just cover up with a new piece offabric. i’m also going to leave this so we still have the la-z-boy emblem on there.eric: cindi’s not cutting the fabric. she’s cutting the threads that sewed this fabricto the deck. i’m cutting this one just about the samesize as the old one, maybe just a touch bigger. there is some clips here that i’m goingto mark to show me where it was attached on here. there’s a clip here and a clip here,and those clips will go together when i put this back on; one on the other end also. i’mgoing to put a pin at the top. for this piece, i’m just going to cut kindof randomly a little bit bigger than what it is so that i make sure it’s long enoughand wide enough. i’m going to center it


on the old piece, and i’m going to stitchright in this area so that when it’s stitched on, it covers up all of the old fabric.cindi to eric: somebody had asked you about covering over stuff.eric: right. cindi to eric: anywhere else, we wouldn’tbecause if it moves or shifts or has cording or whatever, you’re going to feel that eventually.but here it’s not going to matter. we are going to replace these elastics also.i’m going to do that while i’m here at the sewing machine. i ripped these, and alot of times elastic dries out so you’d probably want to replace it, even if you don’trip it. when i’m stitching this, i just want tomake sure i’m beyond this seam right here


so you don’t see any of this old fabricwhen we’re finished. i can feel that underneath here with my fingers. i’m going to trima little bit of this off because it’s quite a bit longer than the original piece, andmy other piece- this one- gets attached here. so i want it to be close to the same length.i’m going to just wrap it around and see that i have probably â½â€ too much so i’mgoing to trim that off. fold it back up and mark the notches right here and right here,and then the notches that i marked on this piece will match up to this piece.eric: throughout this video, cindi will refer to the old decorative fabric to see how itwas sewn or clipped or shaped. so don’t throw that out until you’re done.the stitching went from the notch to the notch;


it didn’t go all the way out to the end.so there’s my piece added on, and now i’m going to finish off the corners and stitchthis down. i’ll start on this side. eric: if you’re wondering why that secondstrip that we sewed on was not sewn all the way at the end, you’ll soon find out why.as this edge is being folded back and sewn down, she can sew past the one panel of fabricand then sew across at that location. that extra strip of fabric is a fabric pull thatwill be used to secure this deck panel to the actual wood frame.there’s that piece. that one is ready to attach to the frame, other than that i’mgoing to replace the elastic. i’m just going to cut these at 5”, and stitch them backon where they were originally. they don’t


have to be tucked all underneath here forthis, but i am going to fold it twice to make it a little bit stronger where i stitch it.i’m ready to attach this piece to this little mid-ottoman. there’s my arrow showing upso that i make sure i get my fabric going the right direction with the pattern up. i’mgoing to go from one side to the other side and then i’m going to do the ends. i’mgoing to turn this under so this is a finished edge here. i’m going to cut out around theholes for the screws to go in. on this side i’m just going to snip out a hole for thescrew to go back into; i’m not going to trim out the whole thing. you are going toneed to trim some fabric out here, otherwise it’s going to be way too thick. it’s kindof just wrapped like a present on the end.


this is the bigger ottoman piece, and i markedmy top with the arrow. i want to make sure i get the top of my fabric going the correctdirection when i put it on. this seam was tacked down along this line on the wood, andi can see the staple holes right here. this edge met this line and it was stapled up abovethat. give it a couple of staples to hold it in place while i work with it first. linethe edge of my fabric up with the line on the wood. then i can go back and put the cardboardtack strip in there. cardboard tack strip will give it a nice hard edge when i pullthis piece back down. there’s where we’re at so far. there’s the cardboard tack stripunder there. you can see how it makes a nice straight edge in there. this piece was attachedin there also. i’m going to line this up


with the foam at the top so that these edgesare even and staple it back down. so i turn this over and i’m ready to pullall of these edges around, and i’m going to start at the top and the bottom to pullthem around. i want to make sure that this piece of foam covers up this edge of the board.so when i pull it, i’m going to try to get it like that. since you can see the weavein this fabric really well, i’m going to use that as my line to make sure this is straightalong the edge, and give myself a few staples across and then flip it over and make sureit’s okay. that looks smooth and tight enough so i’m going to keep going and start onthe bottom. same thing here, i’m going to try to makesure that this piece of foam comes up to this


edge. i’m going to trim a little bit ofthis out also so it’s not quite so thick at this corner when i pull it under.this piece was covered with a dust cover on the back of it so i’m just going to trima piece that’s a little bit bigger than my footrest and just staple it all the wayaround and fold the edges under so it’s a nice finished edge. i start at the top andthe bottom and then pull the sides. before i cover this up completely, i am going tomark the holes for the footrest part of the mechanism.the next part of this process is to attach this deck piece back onto the mech frame,and i can tell where it was. i want to center it, but i can also tell where it was by theway this was folded up from this part of the


frame. these need to be stapled down, andthen this little front piece will be stapled down. i’m just going to put a couple staplesin and flip it over so i can work with it a little better. these elastic pieces, youdon’t want to pull them really tight because this piece is going to move as the chair moves.you just want to secure it. when i look at the old piece on this one,i can see there’s where the stitching was and here’s where the staples were. it wasjust pulled around the edge; it wasn’t turned under or anything. the corner was made overhere so that’s all i’m going to do. i don’t need to make that look pretty overhere. this piece that we covered, the old one thathad the cardboard in the bottom of it, goes


right under here. i’m going to center thatand put a cardboard tack strip over it. i’m ready to attach the ottomans now. justmake sure you have them going up. i put the screws in a little bit and then put anotherone a little bit until you get all four of them in place. now i’m ready to add thisfootrest on here. remember to make sure you get the top at the right place. the reasoni’m adding these on first is it’s going to make the mechanism more stable when i addit to the chair. it should go in a little easier than if we wait and do this later.i’m not going to tighten these down all the way either until i get all four of themin place. there’s what this piece looks like all put together with all the pieceson it. i’m going to take this off the table


and put my chair frame back up so we can putthis into the chair frame. eric: the recliner’s coming along nicely.next, we’ll reinstall the deck to the frame. we have the mechanism just laying in hereright now, and i’m going to put the bolts through the mechanism itself and through theframe of the chair. one thing that you want to be careful of when you do this is sometimesthere’s grease on these mechanisms. so check for that first before you put it in, and ifthere is, lay a scrap piece of fabric over the arm and slide the mech over the scrappiece of fabric rather than over your regular fabric so that if you do have grease, it endsup on your scrap fabric. now we have the mech all attached with thesefour bolts where we took it out and we’re


ready to flip the chair up and make sure thatthe mechanism works. it’s catching on our table because we haven’t put the feet onthe chair yet. it will work properly when we get it all put together.eric: we do have to cut some of the fabric away to allow entry of the bolt into the frame.after we get this put together and have the legs on the chair, you can see that this isout a little bit too far on the ottoman part, even though it’s pushed all the way in.the frame has slots where we put those screws in so we have a little bit of play there.we’re going to turn it over and loosen up those screws and see if we can move the wholemechanism back just a little bit so we don’t have to adjust anything out here.eric: coming up next, we’ll show patterning


and sewing inside the back cushion cover.this back cushion is rather complex on our chair so we will break this down into fourchapters, which will hopefully make it easier to do it one step at a time. this is whatthe cushion will look like when we’re done. now let’s show you the process.the next piece we need to construct is the inside back. this piece had this back pieceattached to it, and it has all these other pieces that have to be attached to this frontpiece. in order to keep all of that straight, i’m going to take this big front piece offand then keep all the rest of it together and cut it in half so that i have a referenceto go back to in case i get lost in the process. the only piece i want to take apart rightnow is this big front piece. so i’m going


to work on this area right here.here’s the big front piece, and here’s everything that’s going to get attachedaround it- all still in one piece. what i would like to do with this is fold this top-this is the top- fold the top in half and i’m going to cut it down the middle so thatone piece can stay all together and one piece i can take apart so that i know what i’mdoing. i’m going to lay the seams together here at the top, and just pin it. make surethat it’s together down here also. then i’m going to cut right over on this fold.now i have one side that i can leave together, and one side that i can take apart. i’mgoing to give myself some hash marks to the pieces that go together to help me also rememberhow to put this back together because there


are so many pieces.eric: she’ll cut apart seams to separate each one of those pieces. these we’ll callfacing strips. this half will be cut apart. the other half will be left whole so she candetermine where the pieces go. so to put this back together, i’m goingto cut the front of my cushion first. then i’m going to take these off one at a timeand add them to the new piece so that i get it all right. this is actually a pretty complicatedpiece the way it’s all sewn together so i want to be really careful that i put itback together correctly. i’m going to fold this in half to find the center of my patternand decide where a good place is to have this main one land on my cushion. i think i wantto go up a little bit higher so that this


one is at the top, rather than in the center,and a half pattern at the top. i’m going to put some pins at this fold so i can justfold this piece over and cut the other side identical to this side.eric: since all the edges will be seamed, she’s going to cut it right along the edgeof the old decorative fabric following the curve exactly.i have this cut half way around. i’m going to take this piece off and fold it at my pinsto cut the other half. eric: here’s a close up of the pin you cansee sticking through the fabric. i’m also going to put a clip at the topand the bottom at the center just about a â¼â€ in.


eric: these clips will be used to find thecenter location when sewing on the facing strips.this long piece right here is the first piece that gets attached to this piece. so i’mgoing to remove this and cut it out and attach it before i remove anything else. here’sthe first piece i want to attach; this is actually just a straight strip. it gets shapedby this seam. this is only half of the top so remember to lay that and cut the otherhalf of it. this is the piece that goes across the top,and remember we cut it in half. i want to lay it on the center of my pattern and puta pin. eric: next she’ll fold it in half at thepin, pin the other half down, and then cut


around the edge.there’s what that piece will look like after its cut, and when we go back to put it backtogether, we have the hash tags to help us, or the hash marks to help us put it back together.sorry, it’s not a hash tag! eric: using this facing strip, she’ll cuttwo of exact copies- one for each side. this is one side that i’m going to add onto the side of that cushion. i’m going to put a pin at the top so i don’t forget whichis the top. i’m going to put a pin over here to remind me that this is the side thatgets sewn to the front of the cushion; this is the side that gets sewn to the back pieceis where i have all the marks; and i need two of these.eric: to make a mirror image of this, make


sure right sides are facing each other, orsometimes referred to as outside surfaces facing each other.we’ll put a pin at the top again, and a pin on this side that goes towards the frontof the cushion. this edge attaches to the front of my cushion, and this edge attachesto the front of my cushion. so i want to sew these three pieces together like this acrossthis seam. eric: they’ll be sewn together there witha â½â€ seam allowance. this pin here and this pin here is the sidethat i want to attach to this. i’m also going to mark the center of the top piecewith a snip at each side. so i’m going to match up the center on this piece and thecenter on this piece where i snipped it, and


then stitch this all the way around to thebottom. eric: it’s a good idea to always start atthe center and sew down one side, or leg. then flip the assembly and sew the other legwhen you’re done. i’m going to put a couple clips in the topof this to go around this corner right here. eric: here she’s coming upon a little shapelycorner. she’ll stop there, cut a notch- never deeper than a â½â€, which is our seamallowance- to relieve it there slightly. since i have this piece all still together…thisis the piece that i just sewed on to the base piece. i’m going to go back and do the otherside. eric: she’ll start from the center positionwhere she started sewing, and obviously the


panel’s been flipped so the facing is onthe underside. here it is completed. let’s move on and start with the second strip.now i’m ready to add this piece on so i’m going to take this off of here and cut itout. remember to cut- this is only half of what we need. this piece has a cut right here,and it’s only sewn that far. make sure when you cut it out you mark that cut and you onlysew this far around the piece, and then this will get attached later.eric: this is the half that we’re cutting apart. remember we’re leaving one half completelytogether just in case we get confused. as you can see, it’s important to study howit was sewn and if there were any notches cut anywhere. repeat those in your new decorativefabric if you see them.


there’s also a stretcher attached to thetop here that needs to go in this seam when we put it back together.eric: a stretcher is used to pull the fabric taught around the frame and then be stapledto the frame. it’s typically another fabric, a scrap fabric, or it could be the same decorativefabric just wasted left over pieces. here’s the little clip that i want to sewto. i’m going to mark it on this one, and then i’ll mark it on the other one wheni cut it also. i’m going to put a pin at the top again, and at the side where i’mgoing to sew to my previous piece. eric: make a mirror image by flipping rightsides together then cut around. we’ll not show the cutting.this is the top piece. remember it’s been


cut in half so we’ll need to fold it inhalf to finish the opposite side. don’t forget to make clips at the center location.those clips will be used to find the center locations for opposite side panels, or adjacentpanels i should say. because these pieces are a little bit complicatedwith all the separate pieces that have to make this one cushion, i’m going to putthis on here and show you where we’re at so far. this was our first round of fabric.i do need to go back and stitch this into a corner so that it covers up this bottompart of the chair. i’ll do that in a little bit.this is the next piece that’s going to go on, and it’s going to make this curve righthere. i’m going to add these two to the


top of this, and then add those three to thispiece. eric: in preparation for sewing that top pieceto the two side pieces, she’ll flip it so it’s wrong side out. outside surfaces arefacing each other in pennant so that she knows exactly how it should be sewn. a â½â€ seamwill be sewn along the top edge. when assemblies are complicated like this, it’s always agood idea to pin them together so that when you take them to the sewing machine, you willnot be confused with them. so this is what i just made, and you can seethat it’s going to take the shape of the cushion around this corner. it kind of mirrorsthe front the way the front is made. the next thing i’m going to sew is from here attachingthis, and then all the way up and around.


then i’ll be ready to add the next pieceon to it. i start at my clips in the center. eric: you’re only job is to keep the edgeslined up and stitch about a â½â€ from the raw edge of the fabric. in order to sew theother half, turn the assemblies so that the facing is on the underside and sew from thecenter position out down the leg. while i’m here i’m going to go ahead andmake this corner at the bottom to go around the bottom of the cushion. i need a clip thereto do that. eric: this is the part she forgot when shesewed the first facing strip to the main plate. this may seem very complicated and confusing,but you can always go back to the opposite half that has not been cut apart or the seamshave not been ripped apart. you can look at


it as a reference for what you should do now.there’s the bottom corner. i’ll do the same on the other side.eric: this side will be much easier to see because the facing is on top of the plate.so we’ll show this in its entirety here. i’m going to put this back on so you cansee where we’re at, and so that i can figure out where i’m at.eric: our back cushion is a lot more complicated than most recliner chairs. there are a lotof facing strips to give it its shape. yours may not be this complicated, but we wantedto show the whole process. it’s starting to look like the back cushion.eric: we’re not done yet. we need to add another facing strip. that’s coming up next.this is the half of the last piece that we’re


going to add on here. i’m going to buildthis whole piece before i add it to the front piece. but this is the part that pulls aroundthe frame of the back. so i’m going to stitch it from here up and around after i get itbuilt. this already has the cording attached at the top, but you don’t have very muchto pull on right here. i’m going to cut it the same size, but then i’m going toadd a stretcher to it to give me something to pull on when i attach it to the frame.i’ve also marked the top on this piece so i don’t forget which is the top, and alsoon this piece. eric: we’ll cut this assembly apart, patternit, then we’ll sew it together as a complete assembly. that will be done before we sewit to the main assembly we just made in the


previous chapter. you’ll notice that italso includes some piping, or sometimes referred to as cording. if you’ve not made enoughof that previously, you’ll need to make more for this.i’m going to make a mark right here where my cording stops, like that, to help me rememberthat. this is the top piece that i cut in half initially. this piece right here goesaround the bottom side of the frame. i had cut it off earlier; it’s the match to thisone right here. i’m also going to mark the top on this one because all these pieces arejust a little confusing. eric: upon careful inspection, this panelhas seam edges, and it also has staple edges. the seam edges will be cut exactly to size,but the edges that are stapled will be cut


larger.i’m giving myself a little bit of extra fabric right here because there wasn’t muchleft when i pulled this off so i have a little more to work with when i’m putting it backon. i need two of those. i’m going to put a pin in my new piece atthe top, and right here is where it was stitched so i’m going to put a pin over here also.i’m going to leave this part down here long to give myself a little bit more to pull wheni pull that down underneath the frame of the chair. there’s a couple things i need tomark on this piece. there’s my top. i’m going to put a pin up at the top before itake my pattern off. here’s the mark i made for where the cording stops and starts soi want to put a clip there, and there’s


another clip over here where the stitching-see there’s no stitching from this point down- so i’m going to put another clip there.i want to make sure that i get this piece put on correctly and i want to mark the sidethat goes to my previous piece. here’s where i put the mark where the cording ends. i wantmy pin to be over here because this is what i’m going to sew to the previous piece,which is this seam right here. i need two of these also.i want to put a pin at the top of this one again, and at the seam that goes to the cushionpart that i already have made. i want to also make my clips in the same place on my secondpiece. try to line these up with the grain going the same as it was on the original piece,even though it looks crooked. there’s a


reason why it’s laying that way so i’mgoing to cut it the same way. i don’t know if you can see the lines in this fabric; i’mtrying to correspond with the up and down lines in the weave of this fabric also. i’mgoing to leave this extra fabric here so i have some fabric to pull on when i put iton the frame. this was sewn; you can see the threads left there. i’m going to cut thatangle just like it is now. there’s a clip right there that i’m going to mark.eric: what’s that clip for? cindi to eric: i don’t know yet.eric: okay. cindi to eric: but it’s there. so i’mgoing to mark it! this is the side i’m going to sew, and thisis the top. i also need two of these. this


is the piece that i cut in half initially.i’m going to just cut half of it and then fold it over and cut the other half.i’m going to take this section off because we already have this part attached to thefront of our cushion so you can see what i’m doing as i’m putting this last part together.this is what goes across the top, and this is the first seam i’m going to do righthere, which is this piece. i want to put right sides together, and stitch right down here.eric: we’ll pin it together on the other side just the same.i’m going to lay these pieces back on so you can see what we just built- this, halfof this, and here’s the other half that’s still put together. this outside piece righthere is what’s going to make all of this


take shape. there is the side piece righthere. eric: you will now see why it’s importantto keep one half together. it gets a little bit confusing. as long as you have that asa reference, you should be able to figure it out.i’m missing a clip in this one. oops, there it is right there. so here’s where my stitchingstarts, which is that spot right there and that clip right there. that’s going to comearound there and make this corner right here. first we need to add the cording in. i’mgoing to unpin this so that we can add the cording in. the cording starts at this clipright here. it goes all the way up and around this edge and then back down to the clip onthe other side.


here’s the piece that i showed you, whichis this one that makes the shape of the side. here’s where the cording starts, which isactually the bottom corner of this piece, and it goes up and around the back. to finishthis bottom edge of the cording- this is going to show so you want it to look nice- i openedit up and clipped out a little piece of the piping, and i’m going to fold it over thepiping so that the piping doesn’t push out and fold it like that. that’s going to bethe bottom of my stitching right there at my clip. here’s my clip, and i’m goingto cut this a little bit longer- maybe an inch or so longer than where i want it tostop- and open it up. clip the cording off at the same spot as my clip, and then foldit up into itself on top of the cording so


that this doesn’t push out eventually, andstitch over it. if i can find all my pieces! this is whatwe just did- we added the cording all the way around down to here on this piece, whichis this piece. now we need to add this piece in that’s going to shape the side. thosetwo clips match the bottom; this is why i kept my piece together because this gets alittle confusing. this right here is this point right here. this corner is this cornerright here. so i want this corner to meet at the end of the piping and then that makesthis side. when i stitch this edge it will make this side of this piece. hopefully it’llbe a little clearer after i get it put together. the same thing on the other side…this corneris going to meet right here where your piping


ends and then that will take the shape ofthe side of the chair. eric: cindi will start sewing at that clip.do a little bit of reversing, and then sew on, matching up those edges and sewing a â½â€away from the raw edge. notice what she does here when it takes almost a 90 degree turn.she’ll bury her needle, lift her presser foot, rotate the fabric around, lower thepresser foot, then continue to sew matching up the edges. we’re now walking over thatpiping, or cording. the ultrafeed has a built in tunnel for piping. if your machine doesnot have that, you’ll need to install a cording, or piping, foot. when this corneris reached, she’ll stop a â½â€ and do that same procedure again- lifting the presserfoot, rotating the fabric, lowering the presser


foot, and continuing to sew.there’s the piece that pulls around the outside frame of the chair.eric: we’ll now do that same procedure to the other side. but it will obviously be flippedthe other direction- facing strip on top. we’ll not show all of this.here’s the other side of the outside frame. this is the part that goes along the backof the chair, and this pulls along the side. here’s where i want to add a stretcher becausethat doesn’t give me very much to grab onto to pull. i’ll do that in just a minute.but that’s what that piece looks like. eric: the fabric pull is probably not necessaryalong this edge because this’ll be the first edge that gets stapled down. let’s fastforward and take a look at that on the finished


assembly being stapled to the frame.this is where i added the extra stretcher because there wasn’t much to pull on rightthere. i’m just going to put a couple staples in this at the top.eric: you can see here all we needed is really that piping to be along the edge of the frame.the fabric pull that’s been added was probably not necessary. let’s go back to our projectagain. we’re going to show cindi putting the fabric pull on anyway. i’m just going to use this piece of dustcover to add onto here, and this old piece, so that it goes all the way to the end. i’mnot going to sew this yet. but it goes from where i stopped at this corner over to theother corner.


we’re ready to attach this piece to theback cushion. this is what wraps around the frame of the back of the chair. it’s goingto get sewn down to this clip right here, and then this piece gets sewn the rest ofthe way to finish it off. on the old piece, there was a little stretcher that went acrossthe bottom. i’m going to replace this with fabric, but i do need to cut it out and addit as i’m adding these other pieces; it’s actually attached to this piece right here.eric: the stretcher here is very important. i’m just going to cut it out of a scrappiece of fabric. if i look at the way it’s attached right here, it’s attached to thispiece. when i sew it on, it ends up down here along the bottom and up the sides to wherethis one stops. so that’s the next step


for me at the sewing machine.i also have a stretcher pinned across the top right here. there wasn’t one there originally,but because there’s such a little bit to pull with right here, i’m going to add thispiece on to give myself a little more fabric to pull on. so i’m going to do that first.eric: this is the stretcher we didn’t really need, but it won’t hurt installing it anyway.cindi lines up the corners and then pins them. do that on both edges here.first i’m going to attach this strip to these two pieces. this will go around thesides and the bottom. this piece i’m going to start sewing at this clip that i have inboth pieces, and go up and around to the other clip.eric: in this situation, we did not start


at the center position, but instead starteddown the one leg, went up around the corner, around the top, and then back down a leg.here we come to the other side where the clip is.here’s the two clips where i need to stop stitching this piece. what i’ve done is kind of madea frame around the back of this cushion. this is what’s going to pull around the woodframe, and this is what’s going to hold the cushion.eric: only one more thing to sew onto this assembly and it’ll be done. i’ll start stitching this piece where istopped this piece. i’m going to put a clip


in this piece right where i stopped the stitchingfrom the last piece, and start right here and go all the way around again.eric: if this seems confusing, always go back to your piece that you left whole and inspectit. it’ll make a lot more sense then. we’re coming down to that second clip. cindidid not clip it yet so she will do that now, and stop sewing at that position. there’swhere the clip is on the underside fabric. she’ll stop sewing there.i also need another stretcher at this point to pull this part, attach it to the frame,and i’m going to just going to use a piece of the old fabric to sew across the top fromhere to here. eric: this is an important stretcher to install.coming up next, we’ll install the back plate that’ll hold the foam in


place.just to show you where we’re at, before we put the last piece on, i’m going to stuffthe core inside here so you can see what it looks like now. this right here is the piecewe just added on; this is the stretcher that i just added on. that’s what’s going topull around the frame, the wood frame- of the chair. the next piece that goes on iswhat closes it all up, and it’s this piece. eric: we’ll reuse the old fabric becauseit’ll never been seen. it’ll pull everything in snug around thecushion when we sew this together. it gets sewn from here, up and around to here, leavingthis open so that we can stuff the cushion in. i usually just put a couple of pins inthe corners on this to make sure that it’s


going to land in the right place, and thenstitch around the three sides. a lot of times i stitch across the top and then down eachside so i don’t have to deal with this corner. i can stitch straight across there and thencome back and stitch straight down because there’s actually a lot of bulk at this corner,and then you don’t have to worry about getting that right if you stitch it in three sections.i’m beginning to stitch right here at this corner where all these pieces meet. i’mgoing to pull this around the corner here, and i’m not going to try to stitch thiscorner right here because it’s so bulky. i’m going to start about an inch down andgo then down the side. eric: the only thing this black fabric doesis hold the foam up against the cushion. there


are springs directly behind it, and it willbe hidden from view. the bottom edge will be left open to insert the foam. she’llstop sewing a few inches from the end. when you stitch this side, you want to makesure that you keep all these stretchers out of the way so that you don’t stitch themdown. these need to be free to wrap around the frame of the chair.this is sewn only part way down on the side because it’s easier to stuff the cushionif you have some opening left on the side rather than just on the bottom. this is allgoing to be covered up by this stretcher; it’s never going to show. after we get thecushion stuffed in, i can either hand sew this closed at the bottom, or we can stapleit closed with a fabric stapler.


eric: up next, we’ll insert the foam in this assembly.here’s what the back looks like. this is the piece that we just added on and we’llneed to close it up down here after we are happy with the way the front looks. we havea little bit of extra fabric right here so i’m going to stuff that with this polyesterfiberfill, and i also need to make sure that the seams are all going one way so that theedges look smooth. i’m going to stick my hand in there and get all of those in orderand then stuff these little corners right here.eric: cindi’s being sure the 1/2” tail that creates the seam is going the same directionon all the seams. a little bit of fiberfill


can help solve any issues with edges or cornersor areas that are voids. fiberfill is ordered in a 10lb bag at sailrite.after i have the front all looking how i want it to, i need to pin this together down here.i want to make sure i leave this stretcher free; don’t sew that closed. this does nothave to be pretty; no one’s ever going to see it. i can use a piece of twine and mycurved needle. i am just taking a really big stitch here just to keep it closed at thebottom. i’m catching the black fabric and the seam at the bottom of the piece. i justgo across the whole bottom with these great big stitches. the other way that you can closethese where it’s not going to be seen, and it’s not really going to have any stresson it, is to use a stapler- which is actually


a lot easier- and staple it closed. if i doit all with twine, when i get to the end, i loop through itself with a little knot,and pull that knot down to where i stopped, and that will secure it at the end.eric: wow!! this complex cushion is finally complete. now it’s time to staple it tothe back frame. i’m going to start attaching this to theframe, and i’m going to start here at the top where this cording needs to rest rightalong the top edge. this is where i added the extra stretcher because there wasn’tmuch to pull on right there. i’m just going to put a couple staples in this at the top.this is the other stretcher that i added on when i was stitching it all together. i’mnot pulling very tight on this piece because


i want to see what it looks like in the front.i’m just securing it so i can turn it over and see what’s happening. this is the stretcherthat i added at the very bottom and it gets attached right across here. i’m staplingthis piece on this outside edge of the frame, and the back piece will come all the way outhere and cover up all of these staples. i’m going just kind of go all the way aroundthe chair and put in a few staples on each piece until i make sure i have this wherei want it. so if i have to change anything, i don’t have as many staples to remove.you can see this one was stapled right here from where the old staples are, and then thispiece was pulled back around to this edge. before i finish stapling all of this down,i’m going to put it on the back of the chair


to make sure that it’s straight and squareand fits the way that i want it to. when we look at the top of the chair up here, it looksa little bit loose. this is the stretcher that i didn’t pull very tight. so we cango back and undo that now while the rest of it is secured, and pull that to get it tolook how we want it to. i put it in the chair, and i’m satisfiedwith the way the front of the cushion looks so i’m going to tack all the rest of thisdown. eric: notice where any raw edges of fabricare exposed, they are folded back to create a hem in a finished edge.here’s a little void that can be filled easily with the polyester fiberfill from sailrite.trim off any excess fabric, and now it’s


time to create the back panel. that’s comingup next. i can see when my outside back goes on thatthere’s nothing, just stitching on this; there’s no tacks or staples or anything.so i want to go back and tuck this up inside so that it’s not able to come out and showin this area where there is no staples right through here. i’m checking out how thisback piece is made before i take it all apart. it looks like it was stapled in here kindof loosely, and then this pulls around- velcro there, velcro at the bottom, and a piece ofelastic to keep it all tucked in. i’m going to cut off the velcro and cut off the elasticand mark where the elastic was, and cut a piece the same size as this is.this is where the velcro was attached. i’m


just marking that so i get it in the rightplace on the new piece. or the elastic, excuse me. i’m going to reuse these velcro piecesso i’m going to take them off also. i’m just folding this in half so i can getmy piece on the center of this paisley. then i’m going to cut this to the same size asthe original. i’m just going to make sure that i add for this to be turned under hereand this to be turned under here. i’m going to make a clip right here where the stitchingstops, and then add about â½â€ to â¾â€ out here where it’s turned under and stitched.the same thing here, i’m going to clip where the stitching stops, and then add on thisedge because this is turned under and stitched. these are the parts that are going to havethe stitching in them. so i’m just pinning


them so i know where i need to stitch wheni get to the machine, and right down across here, where it was stitched originally. whilei’m doing that stitching, i’m going to add this elastic back in where i marked iton my new piece. the velcro goes right there so i’ll go ahead and pin that in place also,and i’ll try to do this kind of in one step. the big piece of velcro was down here alongthe bottom. i’m just going to turn up a little bit like they did, and then this willbe sewn on also. right here at this spot, i just clipped thatso it could spread open and lay flat. i’m just going to stitch right around that corner.eric: cindi will go back and sew the other leg of the velcro and put another stitch inthe elastic. she’ll do that after she sews


around the perimeter where necessary. afterthis is sewn up, it’s time to install it to the chair. we’ll be securing it now tothe outside back of the chair. here is what my new piece looks like withall the stitching in it. when i have the top put on, i want this to land in the right place.so i’m going to lay it on the chair this way and get that in place, and then mark wherethis is going to be at the top. i’ve turned down a good 1” up there so when i put thison, i want to make sure that i turn that much down in order to get this part in the rightspot. i’ll start in the middle and work my wayout with the cardboard tack strip. i’m going to just put a few staples in this and flipit back over and make sure that everything


is okay where it lands. that looks better. then this cornerright here is going to end up on this corner right here, and that’s what i want. thispiece was on the chair originally. it’s just going to make this edge right here alittle softer when it folds over this way; you won’t have such a hard edge from thecardboard. i’m going to put that back in as i’m working on this.this area right here gets a metal tack strip in it. so i’m just going to measure howlong i need it to be and snip it off down here. i’m going to fold my fabric back alongthis edge of the frame, and put the tack strip so that this edge of the tack strip is alongthis edge of my fold. then push the prongs


through the fabric, and fold it back to theinside. i want to line that fold of my tack strip up with this fold on the back of thechair frame, and just start tapping on the nails all the way down. just keep tappinguntil the whole thing is in. i’m going to pull this pretty snug acrosshere because i want this back to be nice and tight before i fold it up this way. do thesame thing- put the tack strip in along my fold on the wrong side of the fabric, pushit through and turn it to the wrong side. this one i want to check before i start poundingit down and make sure that i’ve got this nice and tight because i can move it overa little bit at this point. it looks like, if i pull this over until it meets this edgeof the frame, it’s going to get this nice


and tight across here. so i don’t thinki need to move it over any. this’ll tighten up more when this velcro is attached to the bottomof the chair, but i can’t do that without the chair frame. if this doesn’t fold innice, you can take a couple hand stitches with a curved needle and pull that back downin place. now we can see on the old piece, this sectionright here that had the staples in it, is this part right here. i’m going to openthis up and kind of do it backwards and attach it to this part of the frame with just a fewstaples. i want to make sure that i’m doing it so that this part is pulled nice and smoothdown. so the back is attached, and i think i will go back and take a hand needle andjust tack those down with a couple of stitches.


i’m going to double it and just put a knotin the end of it and bury the knot. when i say i want to bury the knot, i’m going tostart stitching up here, and then when i pull this through the knot, it’s going to endup on the inside. i’m just going to grab a little bit of this frame fabric, and a littlebit of the outside back fabric, and just secure this corner. it’s really hard to get yourmetal tack strips all the way to the bottom of these corners. i don’t usually put aknot at the other end; i just do a few stitches out away from where i stopped to secure it,and trim it off. i’m ready to put the back back on the frameof the chair. this little piece of velcro’s attached on this side of the frame over here.we can pull that down, and the piece of elastic


comes down and underneath this board, andthis velcro goes on the outside of the frame over here. then this pulls down, and the velcrofor this piece is on the backside of this frame piece, and that tightens everythingup in the back. the reason why they make the chair this way is so that you can open itup and get to those brackets to lift the back off.eric: this completes the how to reupholster a recliner tutorial. coming up next is a materiallist and tools that we used to transform this chair with new decorative fabric from sailrite.this seat cushion still needs to be made for this chair. that will be shown as a separatevideo. a link to that video will be provided after the materials and tools list is displayed.looks really good. i’m very pleased.


eric: all the materials you need to reupholsteryour chair are available at www.sailrite.com. there you will also find hundreds of greatdecorative fabrics for your next project. here’s the list of tools that we used forthis video. notice that most of these tools are included in the upholstery tool kit availableat sailrite. click on a video to see more upholstery projectslike this. the video at the bottom will show you how to complete the seat cushion for thischair. for more free videos like this, be sure to check out the sailrite website orsubscribe to the sailrite youtube channel. it’s your loyal patronage to sailrite thatmakes these free videos available. thanks for your loyal support. i’m ericgrant, and from all of us here at sailrite,


thanks for watching.